Creating a transparent body with your own hands
So, a year and a half ago, I first caught my eye with a transparent Clear Tech case, or I don’t remember exactly what it was called there. Since then, I have a vague thought that I have good and I do something like that. Once again, having carefully examined it, I realized that there can be no question of repetition, especially since my financial capabilities are very limited. Therefore, I created my constructive, perhaps not so spectacular, but quite viable, and also suitable for repetition. This can be discussed with full confidence, because when I started to make one building, I made them three pieces, their names are made in the heading.
I’ll make a reservation that the guys who did not hold the barbells in their hands are unlikely to take such a design, perhaps, to start to practice and try to create something easier, such as such a lamp.
Only in order to learn how to cut and glue plexiglass. I probably won’t write about these simplest operations, t.to. This has been done repeatedly before me.
In general, judge for yourself. Making such a case is quite simple. In its manufacture, I did not draw drawings, since I did not buy an plexiglass in the store (this is a rather expensive thing), but looked for it at my work (well, for example, a sheet of red plexus, which was enough for the entire CTP-5 Rouge case, cost it I have a bottle of vodka), but from here was an additional difficulty. I had to take into account the different thickness of the plexiglass all the time, so that in general everything looked neat enough.
So, for starters, you need to have material for the side and rear walls, for the side, large enough walls, do not take outpeches thinner than 5 mm, the back wall, should be at least 8 mm thick. Then you can proceed to the manufacture of the upper and lower lid. The lower lid is cut out of 10 millimeter plexiglass, the upper. 6mm. Both covers should be exactly the same, of course, at first I made a thick lower lid, and on it adjusted the thinner upper. If possible, it is better to finish both covers in one pass. Further 4 vertical racks. They are also cut out of a 10 millimeter pan, in the lower part of each, two holes with a thread M3, in the upper part, one hole M3. I drilled the front racks under the cut of the lids, the rear racks with an indent, for the rear wall, which is also made of 10 mm chips, as it carries a heavy power supply. I must say that I did not come across a plexiglass, the thickness of which would be expressed by such round numbers as 6 and 10. In fact, everywhere the size of the thickness went with tenth and hodo shares, for example, 6.35 and 10.2. So, the principle, measure seven times, cut off once, acts here by 100%.
After these 6 parts are leaded, I immediately screwed plastic legs to the bottom cover so as not to scratch the nuding case once again. The frame is ready, and we can say that a third of the work is done. Of course there is a lot of work, but from that moment everything that is done is done clearly. We make the back wall, its dimensions, if you follow the above drawing. 470s (140-minus double the thickness of the side wall). T.e. If the side walls are made of a pan 6.35mm, then the width of the rear cover is 140- (6.35×2) = 127.3.
Perhaps you should immediately say a few words about sizes. These dimensions are not, something super-rational, I took them almost from the ceiling. And as can be seen in the photographs, they can easily be changed.
So the back wall. We decided on its common size, it can already be screwed in its rightful place, but that is not all, because the back wall carries many functional loads. At this stage comes the turn of the motherboard. It is installed on a piece of plexiglass 600x290x4. This piece of plexus is fixed on the inside of vertical racks with four screws M3. There is no great accuracy, and the thickness of this piece of a big role does not play. But then you will need to act extremely carefully. Modern motherboards have an average of 9-12 fasteners, I cut the same number of pieces of outflow of 10x10x8 in size, in the center of each hole with a thread M3. With short M3 screws, we screw these pieces to the motherboard, of course, the screws from the parts of the details, the plex on the smooth side. In the future, it remains only to carefully smear these pieces of the plexus with glue made of sawdust of the same plexus soaked in dichloroethane and glue in place.
From the old corps of the computer, I cut out part of the rear wall with a grille to install expansion board. We insert two of any board into two extreme connectors, fix the grille on them and now there is a turn of dichloroetan. The frame, a flexible frame, plus the back wall, as well as pre.installed in this frame, taking into account the further installation of the power supply, the power strip (600x290x4). We put all this construct on the side. And then we take a motherboard on which boards and a grille are installed, with pieces of a plexus already screwed to it, lubricate them with dichloroethane glue and glue it all on a 4 millimeter strip of the gas, with such a calculation so that the sieve stood close to the back wall.
Since the back wall is transparent, it will not be difficult to gently mark the holes in it. In order not to scratch the plexiglass once again, I used a thin felt.tip pen. Subsequently, its traces can be erased with alcohol. Farther. The case of technology: drill, cut out, align the edges with Shaber. It remains to do exactly the same manipulations with a power supply, and the back wall is ready. On my buildings, though there are some other little things: a fan, power connectors, connectors for the columns, but all these details are of secondary importance. Their installation is not particularly difficult and I mentioned them only for the sake of observing objective reality.
Well, I hope I set out the process of making the back wall quite intelligibly, but just in case I give a small illustration. And I must say once again that having made three buildings, I was convinced that there is no single size. All metal inserts were from different buildings and, accordingly, had different sizes, in the same way, and all three motherboards had several different configuration of the output connectors.
Next, you need to do something like a small storyteller for installing the hard drives and CD-ROM. I did this thing based on the installation of three CD-ROM, therefore, if it does not suit someone, then the size will have to be changed.
Dear visitors to the Samodelkindrug site in the material presented to your attention will be discussed, as you understood about creating a table-system block. Today it has become fashionable to make tables for computers and laptops with your own hands, so our author decided to surprise us once again with his product. As everyone knows ordinary system units, sometimes sometimes to provide cooling the computer system, because of which it begins to hang and slow down. Many people solve this problem in that they put a fan opposite the system unit and a cool flow of air cooles a heated block. Of course, this action helps, but still I want the computer not to warp and work normally, for example, when we play a variety of games or work on the Internet.
But our author went much further and solved the problem as follows, he made a special computer table and placed all the insides of the system unit in it, and also made an enhanced ventilation system consisting of 6 coils located to the right and left side of the table.
How he succeeded? Let’s look at and figure out everything. We look what the author needed to create a table-system block.
- system unit
- Culler 6 pcs
- putty knife
- LED Strip Light
DIY table-system block.
And so at first the author dismantled the table he had, namely he took off his countertop. The upper part will not be needed. And so the upper part is removed and the tool was prepared. In the side panels of the table, 6 holes are drank for installation of fans. The author makes corners with a bevel and unevenly putting. Then the tool and all the garbage are removed, then painting will be done. And so the author added another panel in front to install speakers and painted everything. Then the upper part of the table is covered with vinyl. That’s what from this.The glass is installed on the table surface. Cullers and the entire internal filling of the system unit are inserted. And then the table is ready. Now the author can play and work on the Internet, thanks to a powerful cooling system consisting of 6 overheating coolers, no longer. And also the design is simply fascinating, this is definitely not anyone.
Inexpensive LED tape can be bought here delivery free. (to look at the picture) Inexpensive computer coallers at a price of 61 apiece, you can buy here, we hope the information was useful for you. Join our group and will receive a high.quality, interesting summary of new home.mades.
DIY computer in the table
Greetings, habr! I am a PC fan in the table, I have been doing them for a long time and today I want to show you my new project.
The most compact and thin computer in the table that I did.
A comrade asked to make a PC for him in the table, but with unusual dimensions and high requirements.
He had a corner from which he wanted to make himself a compact, game setup.
The dimensions of this area are 93 by 160 cm.
Table dimensions 92 by 65 cm. Good iron should fit inside, with a liquid cooling system.
Sweep the countertop with a whole piece of skin.
On the front of the countertop there are two USB 3.0 and a full.fledged cartrider.
Color black matte, red stripes on the legs.
The first button turns on the power supply, the second button turns on the PC itself, and the remaining four buttons to control the lighting in its room.
I made a countertop, in dimensions it is 92 by 65 cm.
The countertop with a mechanism, the glass knows how to rise and drop to easily replace or maintain components.
Made guides for the mechanism and cover.
I figured out how to make a removable dock with buttons.
The base will be attached from the bottom of the countertop, and let the cables from the buttons through the internal cable channel. The client can easily replace the buttons if he wants something new.
Minimum area, but everything should fit inside and cool well.
1 and 2 are 360 mm radiators, to cool the processor and video card.
5 This is a casing for a power supply, Wi-Fi module, cable synchronizer and controllers.
6 This is a false panel with a motherboard and a video card.
I decided to make a double bottom to make cable management and hide all the cables.
Suppose in the 24 PIN food area we cut out the cable channel and hide the cable inside.
And so I do with each cable that will be on this computer, this is how it will work out to create cleanliness and order inside.
There is a lot of ventilation at the very base.
Under the motherboard and a video card, blowing cold air inside and on the sides, six coolers are responsible for blowing hot.
I changed the geometry of the legs in this audit and added a new chip.
The insert in the center of the leg is now highlighted. Live, looks unusual in the dark, but I like it when there is no backlight at all.
I now make the inserts themselves on magnets and they are removable, they can be quickly replaced and updated by the design of your table.
He made a black table, a year later when he had already bored with you, you took off the insert in the leg and changed it to any other, thereby easily updated the design of your table.
On the front of the countertop, I installed two USB 3.0 and a full.fledged cartrider.
And buttons for turning on PC and control of lighting in the room, as my friend wanted.
The countertop is covered with a whole piece of skin, without a single junction. To the touch turned out a very pleasant table.
Black, matte.colored table, red strips on the legs.
The angle of inclination of the countertop can be changed.
The countertop rises and you get access to all components, they can easily be replaced or serviced. Everything is done for maximum convenience.
The bracket made for one monitor, it allows you to move the monitor in all planes and does not take up a place on the countertop.
Inside, I9 9900K was installed on the MSI Z390 Gaming Pro Carbon motherboard.
To cool the processor, Thermaltake Floe Riing RGB 360 TT is used.
In AIDA 64, I received 73-78 degrees, with the quietest mode of work of coolers.
Glass countertop during a peak load on the system “Heated” to 27 degrees.
Noise at peak load (I simultaneously turned on AIDA64 and Furmark) was 35-38 dB. Distance 40 cm from the table.
The table was taken to the new owner home.
Soon he will install additional lighting in this corner, change the chair and add shelves to the devices.
There is a curtain with an electric drive.
We make a window in a case from a protective screen with our own hands
What is modding, I learned for a long time from the computer press and somehow by chance I began to visit thematic sites on modding, looked at articles, but did not dare to start aesthetic reincarnation of my computer. True, once I started to make the Reobas at that time at that time, since I had rather noisy coolers in the system, and I did not have finances for the purchase of new ones, well, I replaced the LEDs in the building with blue and purple for one. But now, looking at the next Modder project, I was overwhelmed by an unbridled desire to do something serious with my system unit.
Window cutting. One of the most time.consuming operations standing in the way of a novice Modder. To perform this operation, you can go in different ways:
Buy a mass.produced case with an mounted window, of which now a myriad of. For me it was unacceptable due to the fact that my body was purchased recently.
Buy a special tool (Dremel), which is considered an indispensable attribute of a modern modder. But all my searches of this device were in vain. Maybe I was looking badly, but knowing the approximate price, this did not add optimism to me.
Go to the car repair shop, where for an additional fee (often extremely small) you will be done quickly and quite high quality. I learned this method after my modding.
Cutting with laser. This method belongs to exotic and the cost will most likely be unacceptable. But to a large plus of this technology, you can bring that when cutting a laser, maximum accuracy is achieved, and you can also make a window of any shape which you only want.
Making a window on their own and an available tool. To cut the window, you can use everything that the metal can cut (corner grinding, scissors for cutting metal, electric drill, etc.D.). Here everything is limited to the imagination and directness of your hands. This operation requires maximum accuracy, since this will depend on how your system unit will look like in the future. I went along this path.
To cut the window, I did not have a corner grinder or other more suitable tools. But there was a drill with a set of drills of all sizes and grinding nozzles.
And now the hour “h” has come, and I began to embody my mod in reality. As a window, I had a protective screen from the 15th “monitor of the old” four “size 320×245 mm.
To the pluses of this window, I can bring that it had an overhead plastic frame, which can continue to be used to hide the flaws that appeared when making a window, moreover, the window initially goes tinted, which only adds attractiveness.
After removing the side cover from the inside, a stencil of the future window was drawn. Next, with the help of Kern, I made holes along the entire contour of the estimated location of the window to prevent sliding drill. The next operation was directly drilling holes using the drill with the final chord was cutting with a knife on already drilled holes.
Next, it is necessary to bring the window into the normal appearance, removing all the irregularities and the stiffeners. To do this, I used a small grinding circle, which is put on the drill. Having glued the inner and outer side of the window with red island, I started installing the window. Putting the frames from the outer and inside to the window, I fixed it with the help of island, having previously inserted the glass between them. On this my torment, lasting 5 hours, ended. At the same time, two drills were broken and one grinding circle was worn.
Since the window in the case was placed not just like that, and to demonstrate all kinds of devices installed in the case, it was necessary to somehow illuminate all this good from the inside. And then a dilemma stood in front of me, which of the backlight options to choose:
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Neon lamp with cold cathode. In the old days, buying a neon lamp was almost unrealistic, but especially entrepreneurial people who were ready to lay out any amount for illumination of the corps in this way, were sent directly to advertising agencies that were engaged in outdoor advertising and ordered neon lamps there. After a while, a boom for car tuning began and at this time serial products for installation in the machine began to appear. Modders began to use neon lamps for auto tuning, the benefit of the power of the lamps was carried out from 12V and it was just necessary to attach Molex. Now a huge number of serial neon lamps are represented on the market, designed specifically for computer modding, starting from Noname manufacturers to well.known brands, such as Thermaltake, Cooler Muster, Sunbeam, etc.D. Colors will also arrange many. Starting from the already classical blue and ending with the now popular in the West by white. The dimensions can be found all kinds of, starting from the standard 30 cm and ending with shortened up to 10 cm lamps. This backlighting method is now considered the most popular, moreover, not too expensive.
The next most popular is the backlight of the ultra bright LEDs. They are often combined several pieces for more intense lighting. But there are also products with one LED installed on a special stand. You can find different colors from blue, green, purple and ending with infrared.
Duralight, fluorescent lamps, incandescent lamps. These light sources belong to non.standard backlight methods. The presence of minuses such as power supply power (220V), a rather significant heat release during operation on the one hand and low cost, both when buying and while operating on the other.
While in the same construction supermarket, I noticed a 6.Wlae fluorescent lamp and having a 26V power supply from a 220V network.
On the box from the lamp it was written that there is blue, red, green, yellow color. There are also ultraviolet lamps. But in my case there were only white. But the most pleasant price was about 3. The kit includes a special cord for connecting the lamp with the network and mount. I didn’t really like the white color and the task arose before me, how to give a lamp a different color. Attempts to find colored lamps have suffered a fiasco.
At first, to change color, I used a green fluorescent marker, but the result left much to be desired. And then I caught my eye with a regular paper folder made of relatively transparent green plastic. Subsequently, a strip was cut out of plastic, repeating the shape of a protective cap of the lamp and inserted inside. The light turned out to be quite bright and completely satisfying my requests. In addition, the lamp practically did not war. If for someone a temperature of 40-45 degrees is large, then on sale you can find lamps with a capacity of 4 watts, which are heated even less.
Overklker tool. Production of an open body-stand
An open stand is a thing that would seem simple and banal. To accelerate its main working computer, a spacious case is bought, high.quality cooling is organized. there is no need for the stand in this case. Another thing is when the dispersal platform is separate. Either there is a need to test components for performance. Here you can’t do without an open stand.
What is an open stand? The simplest option is when components are placed right on the table without any case. With this placement, its own box is traditionally used as the basis for the motherboard. The advantages of such a solution are easy access to all elements of the system and the possibility of quick replacement of individual components, or the entire system entirely. There are much more minuses. Firstly, the motherboard does not attach to the box in any way and freely flays on it. The box, in turn, is in no way attached to the table and can slide along a smooth laminated surface. Secondly, expansion boards remain not fixed. It is very inconvenient, especially if necessary, to measure the voltage by manually with a probe with a probe. Small boards for the PCI-E X1-X4 connector when connecting additional power can pop up from the slots completely. Thirdly, the assembly on the table takes up a lot of space. The wires from the power supply and IDE loops are most irritated the most. Fourthly, to turn on/reloading of boards not equipped with appropriate buttons, you have to use a screwdriver, or put external buttons. Screwdriver is not the most convenient and safe option. Buttons hang on the wiring and make even more mess.
The idea of the body-stand is simple: to improve convenience by adding hard fasteners, reduce the occupied place through a bunk arrangement of components. Roughly speaking, take the usual Desktop Midi Tower case, put it to one side, add it to the left wall of the rack for the motherboard, remove the wires out. you get the simplest stand.
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After a long period of benches on the box from the video card, I realized. that’s enough to endure it! Due to the lack of free space, the situation with the placement of components reached the absurdity. Put the BP to one side, put the drive on it again. The keyboard huddles on the body of the second systematic, the mouse. where you have to. If the old system needs to flash BIOS from the diskette, then you still need to find a place for FDD, connect it to the BP and hold the train to the MP. You need a normal stand, not a box, but an open convenient case.
From the American company Antec from Taiwanese Aerocool from Lian Li Cooler Master
From the Italian Dimastech from the Chinese Qdiy
After some time, I accidentally came across an old case from Inwin (hereinafter simply Invin). Not even a case, but the remains from the body. Someone threw it away. There was no front panel, baskets for floppy and left side wall. The model is presumably S564 CR, but this is not so important. many models have the internal device the same. I liked this building by the fact that the pan for the motherboard and the disks basket were stamped on one large sheet of metal. Here it is. the upper part for the future stand.
We get rid of soft aluminum rivets using a drill to 2.6. The core flies out, and the hat is wound on the drill. a quick and convenient way. You should not knock down a chisel or cut them. you will pile up and scratch the thin sheet metal. To free the necessary parts from excess metal, you can use a corner grinder. While the work is rough, but then to bring the edges anyway. The rivets are drilled, all the excess from the back panel is sawn down, only the necessary part remained.
Having rummaged into the “bins of the Motherland” for such an incident, it was possible to extract from there the old written.off system of Compaq Deskpro (hereinafter. compact):
At one time there was a fashion for such horizontal buildings. Saving free space on the table without loss of performance. just all. You can put a monitor on top.
Inside, the MATX system board was found on the I815 chipset, the P3 800 processor (although the sticker on the case reads “Celeron Inside”), two sdram planks of 128MB each, CDD drives and FDDs, dying HDD 80GB and network board. I had all this modest BP SFX format, which gives the 12V line a current of only 4A. Having dismantled the body, taking out all the insides, it became clear. to be a stand, and here it is, the frame for him. It is worth putting the pallet from Invina on top, the picture immediately emerges.
- Support for motherboards ATX, MATX;
- Support for ATX BP;
- One seat for DVD drive;
- One seat for FDD;
- Collapsible structure;
- The presence of buttons on, rebooting, power indicators and disk activity.
As you can see, the basket for five.inch devices is made by a single module of complex shape. It is installed on the chassis on top and fastened with rivets. They will also have to get rid of them later.
Having tried on the ATX format BP body, you can see the width of the problem. It is required to remove most of the back wall and make new fasteners.
You may notice that in the photo the BP is unevenly. the stand offended on the bottom is interfered with the motherboard (on the right is another one).
Features and advantages of design
Traditionally, the system unit is installed under the computer table. But this selects a fairly free space, a lot of dust penetrates through the ventilation holes inward, which negatively affects the work of the equipment. The decision to transfer all the components into the table, making a glass of glass, has several reasons for the popularity:
- The design is aesthetically attractive. Transparent coating visually dissolves the working surface. Built.in backlight can serve as an additional light source.
- Saving space. Non.standard placement of the systems freezes space on the floor. One unit of furniture simultaneously solves several problems.
- Protection of mechanisms. With floor placement into the interior of the block through the ventilation holes, a lot of dust penetrates, which violates the functionality. Subject to regular cleaning, the built.in computer is less in contact with external pollutants.
- Extended capabilities. Combined with the PC table can be expanded almost unlimited. You can easily install the original customs of cooling system, additional equipment.
A table with computer components built under glass will be an excellent addition to the interior in high-tech styles, minimalism, fusion, constructivism.
Ready-made options for tables-system blocks on the market are not represented. They are made to order or assembled independently. The latter option can significantly save. The owner personally chooses those components that are in the best way to meet his needs. In addition, it is easy to make changes at almost any stage.
The design is aesthetically attractive
Materials of manufacture and consumables
The basis of built.in structures is most often taken by a factory written or computer table. The first option is preferable, since the working surface is more. Another plus-improvements will be required less due to the presence of side walls in which it is convenient to integrate the cooling system, columns. You can also find table options that have a metal frame, completely sheathed by a plexiglass.
What may be required for manufacturing:
- Orgasglo in two versions. for the posterior wall, bottom and panels with an increased load, it is better to choose sheets with a thickness of 10 mm, and for the partitions 5 mm are enough;
- self.tapping screws and thermal pistol for fastening parts;
- electric screwdriver;
- LEDs or LED.
This is a minimum set of tools. To create a table, the contents of the system unit, additional sources of cooling and sound will also be required.
Features and advantages of furniture with a built.in computer
The system unit takes up a lot of space, so they most often place the computer in the table box, or put it right on the floor. This location is not always convenient for the user and is not particularly safe for PC himself. Recently, the built.in system unit in the table has become particularly popular. This design has a lot of advantages:
- simple access to components;
- the risk of pollution is lower than with low placement;
- lack of restrictions on the size of components.
How is the computer arranged in the table
This design involves the placement of computer components in a horizontal position. Inside the countertops are all the main components of the system unit:
From the outer part of the countertop there are buttons on and USB connectors. Many models of table tables are decorated with LED tapes, while the surface of the countertop is usually made of glass. Thanks to the backlight, the computer in the table looks very style and futuristic.
Materials of manufacture
To make a computer table with a system unit, the easiest way to take as a basis the already finished product. It can be a wooden written, computer or ordinary model. If you plan to embed a ventilation system, speakers, electric sockets in the design, it is advisable to choose an option with side panels. A table with a metal frame is also suitable for work. In the process of manufacturing it is sheathed with outfits. From the tools you will need a jigsaw, an electric screwdriver, a drill, a line with a level, a thermal pistol. By the beginning of the work, the details of the system unit itself should be prepared, which will be mounted in the system.
To convert the table and finish use hardened or organic glass (plexiglass). The last material will require two types: 5 mm thick (for partitions) and 10 mm (for the rear panel, bottoms, countertops). It is impractical to take a thin plexiglass for horizontal panels, since it may not withstand the weight of heavy objects. In addition, a complete set of materials is needed:
- LED Strip Light;
- screws, self.tapping screws;
- carbon sheets;
- chalk or washed marker;
- building glue;
- voltage regulator;
It is recommended to take fasteners with a margin so that during the assembly there is no deficiency.
LED tape carbon sheets hardened glass stabilizer of the coolera voltage stabilizer
How to do it with your own hands
After all the requirements for the table are determined, proceed to draw a sketch and draw up a drawing. The diagram indicates the height, width, length of the product, as well as the place where the systematic will be located inside the structure. The layout is drawn in detail, noting the places of fasteners, the location of the elements. Further work consists of successive stages:
- At the table, which is taken as a basis, the countertop is removed. Two long strips 10 cm wide and two short are cut out of it.
- In the upper part of the side panels, three round holes with a diameter of 8 cm are cut. Peone should be located at the same distance from each other.
- The edges of the holes are treated with a grinding skin of different granularity so that they do not have a zazubin and roughness.
- If necessary, the sidewalls are cut into the corner so that the narrowing is in the lower part of the panels.
- The bar cut out of the countertops is glued to the base. The cable channel is isolated with a lattice of 20 cm.
- In the front bar, the countertop cut out the required number of technical holes for installing buttons, switches, speakers.
- All garbage is thoroughly removed from the surface. To do this, it is recommended to use a vacuum cleaner so that there are no dust particles inside the table.
- In the sides cut on the sides, the PC cooling system is placed. three coolers on each side.
- The backlight button is displayed on one of the sidewalls.
- Install speakers and all other components of office equipment. The wiring is hidden in cable channels.
- After the assembly of the system unit is completed, they check how PC works in the table.
- From an plexiglass, a new cover is cut in size and fixed with glue on the table frame.
The most crucial moment is the assembly of the system unit. In the absence of the necessary skills in this matter, it is better to contact a specialist.
Advantages and disadvantages of a transparent body
The obvious advantage of the transparent body for the computer is its aesthetic component. Among other advantages of a transparent corps:
- Multi-colored modern LED lighting.
- The ability to control the visual state of the PC components, including transistors and thermal pass.
- Unusual design will make the PC the main decoration of your room.
- Can be done and modernized with your own hands!
In most cases, users complain about such shortcomings:
- Too marg.
- Pets regularly leave new scratches.
- The price of a regular case is several times higher.
- Self.assembly requires skills in handling computer equipment and equipment.
The largest corps manufacturers have long brought to the market the line of models of transparent buildings for every taste and wallet. And the first problem. which material to choose.
If you already decide to buy a case with a transparent side panel, another dilemma occurs. use hardened glass or acrylic (Plexiglas)? Both materials have their advantages and disadvantages, so the choice may be difficult.
You do not need to buy anything or take additional measures to prevent damage from static electricity when working with PC components. Several simple tips will help to avoid danger without any additional effort.
- Before starting work, avoid walking in socks on the carpet, and also remove all woolen things. such materials can accumulate static electricity.
- When working on the computer, leave it connected to a grounded (three.pin) outlet. Be sure to completely turn off the network using the main circuit breaker on the power supply (on the rear panel of the case), and not the Power button, which you press every day.
- Before touching any internal components, touch your hand to the metal part of the PC case. This will ground you, neutralizing a static charge. After that, you can safely start work without worrying about static electricity.
- Touch the metal parts of the case periodically to neutralize the static charge and remain grounded.
- Never forget about static electricity. Especially if you periodically contact with any individual components. For example, if you need to replace a video card or a bar of RAM, be sure to ground yourself.
- Professional computer techniques recommend wearing an antistatic bracelet. To use it, just put the strap on the wrist and fix it on the PC case. This will provide constant contact with the body and grounding, allowing you to use both hands inside the computer.
The antistatic rug also provides complete protection, but more than enough tips described above. Even an antistatic wrist strap for the usual average PC user will be unnecessary. If you have collected/disassembled your PC many times and have never encountered static electricity. consider that you are very lucky.
Be sure to make sure that you know where the wires should be laid and how to fix components. Pay special attention to the second. improper use (planting in the nest, temperature, dust) of components, whether it is RAM or video card, will certainly lead to PC output. The main problem inside is created by wires connecting the power supply with other parts of PC. When make sure that all the components in need of separate nutrition are connected, pull the remaining wires together with a plastic clamp or island. In most cases, they can be carefully placed along the edge of the motherboard. The cooling of the body is made so that the air flows pass through all its parts, after which a lot of dust settles there. She clogs the paths and air communications of the entire system, which also leads to overheating and breakdown of expensive components. Therefore, it is necessary to regularly perform cleaning, even at home. Adhering to our static electricity advice, remove one side wall and thoroughly sprinkle the motherboard.
Be extremely careful not to hook the processor or rally!
- Beautiful outside.
- A lot of ventilation.
- Rather transparent side window. It also has a place for an additional 120-mm fan.
- Offers many disks compartments (including one 2.5-inch compartment) and 8 expansion slots.
- The power supply is located below.
- Huge fan for maximum circulation.
- Rotation speed regulators for each front fan.
- Control unit on the rear panel for the upper and rear fans.
- Built.in removable air filters.
As for the shortcomings, users most often complained about:
- Limited small holes for laying cables and rubber gaskets to improve the appearance of the wiring.
- Too many disk compartments. they absorb most of the interior space. Some long video cards are not placed.
You can buy such a corps now for about 140 on the Amazon or the manufacturer’s website.
What should you pay attention to when buying
Most technicians pay attention to the following characteristics:
- Connection of the cooler for the processor. allows you to replace the processor or cooler without disassembling the entire motherboard.
- Connection on the front panel. if you have a lot of external devices, check the possibility of quick access on the front panel of the case.
- Fans and air flow. the more fans you have in your computer, the better the air flow will be.
- Puffer filters. clogged with dust, pets wool and tobacco garbage, the computer overheats and faster fails. especially given the transparent case.
- Sound insulation. special covers provide quiet work, often using sound.absorbing materials inside the panels of the case.
- Support for water cooling-thanks to the use of hermetic monoblock refrigerators, liquid cooling has become more effective than ever.
- Tempered glass case is great, but fragile. contact with caution!
- Integrated lighting. custom backlight RGB.
Homemade test stand for maternal boards15.ten.2018 18:49
I think that sooner or later everyone who regularly picks the computer iron comes to somehow optimize the workplace-everyone gets tired of being laid out on the table, then appropriate. Plus, sometimes fuss with a mother can go for several days, and during this time you may need to do something else on the table, start something else, etc.P. And if a motherboard is laid out there, and even some tests go, then moving it can be undesirable. So the classic “box for the motherboard” ceases to arrange. This came to me sooner than early, but it is better than ever
At first, of course, I went to watch ready.made options. They are, but are quite expensive, even Chinese. The average price is 100, it is cheaper, it is more expensive.
Alpha-DB6 CASE. In principle, not such an expensive option, if the delivery is not taken into account. One.story with a “basement” for disks.
BC1 Open Benchtable (in general, this is a rather interesting project and there are drawings for independent manufacture on the site).
X-Frame 2.0. I don’t know what they ask for that kind of money for.
Test Bench v1.0. Only functionality, what is here, that the option has higher.
Qdiy PC-D60. Chinese version. Naked base for the motherboard, only MATX and less, the BP is placed on the side, there are no places under the optical drive.
I consulted with a toad and decided that I would not buy anything. We must do it yourself. I looked at what the Internet can advise on this topic. The Internet advised a lot of things, I did not want this to the first.
General ideas. a bunk design, on the lower “floor” there is a power supply and information carriers, on the upper. motherboard. There are single.tier options when BP and discs are located next to the mother, but they occupy more space on the table.
Most make a stand from the old case. take out a pallet for the motherboard, make a frame from the remains of the case, then the pallet is fixed on top.
When choosing options, I proceeded from the following things:
- I have crooked hands. The mouse and keyboard in them are much better than a hammer and a hacksaw. That is, I can dig, I can not dig. I can saw it, I can not saw. But somehow it is beautiful to saw-this is not to me anymore. Because the less you have to cut, drill, etc.P all the better.
- I will work with what is lying at hand and underfoot. To save and not to walk.
- The design should be two.tier. compact, neat. usually BP and information carriers are used the same, only motherboards and expansion boards change. So it’s easier to fix the PSU and the wheels to constant. or make comfortable seats for them so that you can quickly put and remove. Sows should be at least 3.5 “hard drive and optical drive. Optionally. 2.5 »Disk and 3.5» Disco.
- There should be buttons of turning on and rebooting, speaker, power indicators and hard disk operation.
- It should be convenient to move the assembled design. nothing should stick out for dimensions, except for external cables, there should be places for which it is convenient to take.
I chose a tree as a material for the base. it is easier to work with it, it forgives more errors. Which I will have.
For fastening, the motherboard twisted the pallet from the old case. It would be possible to install fasteners directly on the base of the stand, but this is an extra work. everything is already marked on the pallet of the standard sizes of the motherboard, it is much easier to screw it with four screws to the base than to put a dozen racks under different types of motherboards. The pallet from old Invina would be ideal (A-Series, in my opinion, the early ATH, where the tray on the rails, together with the motherboard, moved out of the corps). But, unfortunately, I did not have this at hand. Yes, and it would be a pity to saw a good body. And so I used some kind of cerebral can like a superpover.
The dimensions of the stand chose based on the size of the pallet. threw a couple of centimeters on each side, somewhat rounded. it turned out 30 × 40 cm. The height is equal to the height of the power supply, set vertically. 15 cm.
Then I was somewhat confused. I did not do it myself, but went to the locksmiths and carpenters and said “I need such crap”. As a result, after a couple of weeks (they were busy, but I didn’t burn) received the ordered horseradish.
Two pieces of wood-bruise, legs made of metal tubes. I myself would most likely do the legs of wooden ones. I would take a pen of a mop and drank four pieces of the desired length, then I would put on long screws.
The power supply was thinking how to put it. vertically or horizontally, as a result I put it horizontally. All the same, the length of the processor power cable was not enough that is so, and the rest of the wires was more convenient to use with a horizontal location of the BP. BP is fixed just on two corners. The power supply itself is the usual five hundred. Of course, it would be ideal to put a PSU here with disconnected wires, but what I used like a bench BP, I stuck it.
To attach optical drives and disks, I took a rack from another old case, is convenient in that it has a couple of stops for a hard drive and it is not necessary to screw it for reliable fastening. But the drive must be fixed.
In order for the opportunity to disperse the processor, the productive cooler Zalman CNPS Extreme 10x is used during the tests, which is a worthy competitor for any “hot” processor.
A 120 mm type of size is adjusted automatically, depending on the temperature, and can reach its full 2000 rpm, for maximum cooling.